Springtime in December: My Second Fulbright Research Trip to Sfântu Gheorghe
Nestled where the Danube meets the Black Sea, the village of Sfântu Gheorghe has always felt like a place caught between worlds, land and water, past and present. Over the past few days, I have had the privilege of immersing myself in this unique corner of the Danube Delta, and once again, it has proven to be both a fascinating and fruitful stop for my Fulbright research.
Conversations and Connections
This visit was marked by meaningful interactions with locals, whose stories form the backbone of my research on human security and fishing in the Delta. I was fortunate to speak with several residents about fish and fishing, the lifeblood of this community. Their insights, especially those shared with warmth and patience, shed light on their challenges and memories.
One highlight was meeting with the village vice-mayor, Mira Bălan, which was an enriching and memorable experience. As we sat together, she generously shared stories about the villagers and local traditions and even brought out old photographs that brought these stories to life. Our conversation was full of warmth and curiosity, and we both truly enjoyed the exchange. She expressed hope for collaboration next year, which I share with great enthusiasm.
A Heartwarming Celebration in the Park
I also had a heartwarming Christmas experience in the park at Sfântu Gheorghe! Santa Claus made a grand entrance, bringing joy and gifts to all the children in the village. The festive atmosphere was complete, with delicious mititei sizzling on grills and cups of mulled wine to keep us warm. Laughter, excitement, and the glow of holiday lights made it a truly special evening.
This beautiful community tradition in the heart of the Danube Delta reminded me of the simple joys that bring people together. Surrounded by warmth, kindness, and a shared sense of belonging, I truly feel at home here.
Waiting for the Boat: A Village Tradition
In Sfântu Gheorghe, the boat’s arrival three times a week is no mere routine: it is an event. On one occasion, I joined locals waiting for its approach, a symbolic lifeline connecting the village to the outside world. The air buzzed with quiet anticipation as goods, visitors, and news from afar flowed into the village. This moment offered a glimpse of the rhythms of daily life here, where the waters dictate pace and purpose.
Perch Fishing and Memories of Sturgeon
Fishing has been part of my journey in Sfântu Gheorghe. I joined a local trip to fish for perch, an activity that deepened my appreciation for their way of life and offered moments of quiet contemplation as the boat gently rocked on the water.
Perhaps one of the most memorable mornings began with homemade wine at 9 a.m., shared with older ladies whose laughter was as abundant as their stories. Over sips of wine, we reminisced about sturgeon fishing, an era before 1990 when the mighty sturgeon swam freely in these waters. Their recollections painted a bittersweet picture of what was and what has been lost. These stories, carried forward through generations, truly bring the Delta to life.
Vecera and Duhid: Traditions of the Delta
During my stay, I learned about Vecera, a cherished tradition in the Ukrainian communities of Tulcea County. Celebrated on Christmas Eve, Vecera brings families together around a table filled with twelve symbolic dishes, each representing one of the apostles. The meal begins only when the first star appears in the sky, blending faith, family, and reverence for nature’s rhythms.
I also discovered the custom of duhid, a delightful practice tied to the season’s caroling traditions. Children who go caroling from house to house are given duhid, candies, or sweets as a token of joy and goodwill. This small yet heartfelt gesture captures the spirit of the holidays, where community bonds are celebrated, and the younger generation becomes part of preserving these timeless customs.
These traditions passed down through generations, remind us of the Danube Delta’s rich cultural tapestry and the resilience of its communities in preserving their heritage.
Holiday Cheer and Sunny Shores
Though it is late December, the weather has been an unexpected gift, sunny, warm, and reminiscent of spring. This unseasonable warmth accompanied me to the Black Sea beach, where the expanse of blue stretched endlessly, offering a moment of reflection against the hum of waves.
In the evenings, the village park, decorated for the holidays, gently reminded me of the season’s approach. The festive lights, glowing warmly under the clear Delta skies, brought a sense of calm and community to my stay.
A Fruitful Stay
This trip to Sfântu Gheorghe has reinforced the importance of listening to stories, people, and the landscape. From perch fishing to wine-fueled conversations, from governance discussions to learning about Vecera, duhid, and attending the village’s joyful Christmas celebration, each experience has contributed to my understanding of this unique environment and its people. As always, the Delta reveals itself slowly, layer by layer. It demands patience but rewards those willing to wait with richness in research and life.
As I prepare to leave, I feel immense gratitude for the people of Sfântu Gheorghe, who are generous, resilient, and proud of their place in the world. This has been more than just a research trip; it has been a journey into the heart of the Delta, where traditions endure and stories flow like the waters themselves.
